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"popular" Making a PCB PCB


Now let's see how popular the PCB. Here comes into play a very useful tool to consider, is called "Third Hand" (third hand). It is very comfortable working with her. What I do is put the board between the two alligator clips to the side of the tracks looking up, so to insert the components you have to turn all the tools, so that later when you have to weld the tool is in its normal position. After welding, just missing trim excess duckling "with pliers.

welding technique is simple, first plug the welder, and you wait a few minutes until hot. Then feeds the tool tip with a little Estani as to coat once. After quickly heat the place where you will go the weld (in our case the union of the component leg and the track) and then with the other hand you "feed" the welder Estani. It is a matter of practice until you take your hand. TENE WELDER CARE BECAUSE YOU ARE A VERY HIGH TEMPERATURE. Every now and will happen to you that the solder does not "get." What you have to do is try a little more, but Estani clean the soldering tip with a damp sponge or rub against something metal welder for the Estani go. For the sponge you can use the media to bring welders. is recommended that you have a support for the welder to support when you're not using.



The provisional
welding is as follows:

-network socket of Integrated Circuits and trimpots
-resistors, capacitors

-Diodos/Transistores

-network socket of Integrated Circuits and trimpots: These components do not have too much science. Regarding you have to grope network socket on the board until the pins will accommodate the holes. Then weld leg by leg, being careful not to touch the welds. I recommend you solder the legs from top to bottom. The pins are counted as in the photo. Oh, and do not forget to put the integrated network socket when you finish, but the pedal Funk P!

trimpots As there are several formats. Recall that a trimpot is a potentiometer, but for the board. These are used in the plate, as it is only necessary to adjust them once. They come in a turn and multiturn, the first using only a lap to cover the resistance range, instead, used several times multiturn allow greater precision. There are also vertical and horizontal . Usually we use a back and vertical, as they are more comfortable. Generally the layout already prepared for the disposition of the legs of the trimpot, so you'll have to grope. It can happen to you when you turn the plate welding, the component will fall. In this case when you put a little bend your legs so that when you give back the plate the component does not fall.

-Resistance: resistors generally are used for the purposes of Carbon and 1 / 4 Watt. The metal is also Film, and is said to have better quality, but are more expensive, and the difference is rarely noticeable.
Poné all resistance and then SOLDAL. The resistors are not damaged by excessive heat, so you would not have to worry about overheating.
To identify the strengths you can use either a digital tester to measure resistance in ohms, or you can walk you through the colored bands.




-Capacitors: capacitors to use are: ceramic pF values, polyester film for kids values, and electrolyte for the values \u200b\u200bfrom 1uF. There are also ceramic kids values, but for audio circuits are used in polyester film, so make sure that all capacitors give you are of polyester.

-Ceramic





-FIML
Polyester







-Electrolyte






-Diodes: The diodes are very small . These components are sensitive to heat. Try not to overheat. Forgotten If you tenes that diode in hand with a magnifying glass you can see the description printed on the body.


-Transistors: components are more difficult to weld. Overall All are easy, but this has a bit more difficult. The problems that arise are: on the one hand they are very sensitive to heat, so you have to be careful, and the other has three legs that stick out and can inadvertently "connect" their joints in the PCB.

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Now let's see how to make a PCB (Printed Circuit Board). While there are other ways to make a circuit, only talk about this because it is the best result is obtained.

first thing to do is get the PCB of the project that we want to do or designed from a schematic and a copper plate untouched. Once achieved, we must print the "layout" with toner on special paper that is capable of transferring the toner to the copper plate untouched.

As for the role, anyone that layer type "glossy" (sticky, shiny) on the one hand, work well. There is also a special role just for these things, I personally got the best results. While it is not very cheap pays a lot. This special paper you can get in Paraná 207, for $ 10 approx. of 5 pages. What you can do is put many PCB you want to do and print them all on one page, and go using that you need.

To print this type of paper need a photocopier or laser printer. The more "loaded" is the impression, the better it will transfer the toner to the plate untouched. Although some papers can be printed with inkjet printers, the ink will not transfer to the plate untouched. The board are going to be printed should be backwards, as if looking at a mirror (mirror). Generally these sites with PCB and have "mirror."

following is grab virulana or steel wool, and pass the plate untouched until it is shiny. Then wash and dry without streaking. If you want you can pass acetone to give a better finish, but not necessary. Once

you have the PCB printed and cut and notice to enter the virgin plate. If there is extra space or you can draw with permanent marker fine some Millennium circuit for later use or you can cut that part is left for later use.



now on a wooden board, you have to support the paper with the blank PCB board, and pass the iron over about 10 minutes. As for the grill, got the best results with the maximum temperature, but with an average temperature. First allow the iron is hot. Then press your hand half of the paper on the plate to prevent movement, and the other with an iron hand press firmly other half until it is "fixed" to the virgin plate. After fixing the half, began to move carefully and do not push hard the plate to the other half, there is no air between the paper and virgin plate. Depending on the role will take approximately 10 minutes to complete the transfer. In these minutes alternating between pressing firmly the iron in different places, and move all the time. Firmly press the edges and center.

If you are unsure if the toner is being transferred, unfurled a tip carefully to see if the toner is on the board. CARE TO THE PLATE IS HOT. If you see that was not transferred "iron it again,"

Finally plate immersed in cold water and wait 10 minutes. Then remove the paper plate. If stuck, you can use the virulana or steel wool to remove it when you throw water from the tap.

If it was not completely transferred you can go through the clues with a permanent marker before placing it in acid. It is a matter of practice until you get it perfect, you have to experience.






Now comes the acid so you have to be careful. What makes the acid is "eating" all the copper that is not "painted", ie only Copper will be transferistes tracks. wear gloves. The acid causes irreversible damage to the skin. If you're half clumsy use eye protection as well. I say this in case: NOT GO TO TAKE THE ACID FOR ANY REASON. Place the dish with the layout in a plastic container in which not on too much space, otherwise you have to use more acid. NO OTHER USES PACKAGING, PLASTIC ONLY, AND DO NOT USE THIS PACKAGE AFTER PLACING FOOD.

now warmed some water in a metal pot or something. Carefully dip the bottle of acid to give a water bath. This is because the acid works best when hot. It is not necessary it is boiling, just warm it up a bit.

carefully opened the bottle of acid. Poured carefully enough in the plastic container with the plate until the plate is submerged. No need to fill the entire container, but you cover the plate.

For best efficiency, you can pour the hot water I was in a plastic container larger than the plate, and this dip in the large, making him another bath.

Andá controlling each plate both moving the plastic container. When you see there is no more copper, take the container to a faucet or something, and carefully removed the plastic gloves and acid plate in the tap sumergila quickly, to be clean. Finally, make sure that no acid remained on the plate, and dry.

Now with the issue of what to do with the remaining acid is a real problem. Some saved for later use, obviously not going to have the same efficiency as before. I personally waste down the toilet. Obviously this is not the right choice. The right thing would be discarded in special place for toxic waste. If you're going to throw it down the toilet, first press the button and when agus is about to "go" strip all the acid careful not to touch another part of the toilet. Then I kept throwing water a couple of times. Tené careful because as you may have noticed the acid eats the copper, a metal, so do not go down well with the pipes that you throw acid.

At this point you'd have to have a board with tracks "black." Before removing the toner remaining plate tracks, it is better to make the holes where they will go the legs of the components. To make the holes need a 1mm drill bit high speed steel. The coal is easily broken. You'll also need a drill or a lathe. You have to get something that is comfortable and lightweight. Place the dish in a vise or something to hold and with a slow speed, you have to drill all the holes marked.


Another option is to get one of those media that transform your lathe or drill a hole in the bank. The truth they are very comfortable and easy to use.

Finally it is time to remove the toner from the copper. For this you can use the virulana with a little polish remover or alcohol. After anguage and dry. Now you have a plate ready to be welded.
(final photo)

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Making a pedal from scratch


At first glance you can get a little scary, but the graph above, is the composition of a pedal type, with an approximate distribution in the case. Obivamente the model is not to scale. The following explains how to understand the scheme and operation.

Let's start at the beginning. A pedal has 2 positions, one in which the effect is on and one for the bypass (where the effect is off, ie it does bypass). Responsible for making this change in positions is a bipolar investment standing in this case (DPDT). The investment as bipolar has 6 terminals (2x3), ie the two terminals of medium in a position connected with the above, and in another position connect to the bottom. This set of cables will the pedal is in bypass position and in another the effect is activated. Later we will explain the wiring harness.

All electrically powered pedal, so that all the Ground (-) should be connected together. This is represented by the black wires

The Stereo jack (female) is where you plug the guitar cable, ie the IN (input) of the pedal. The guitar is plug Mono, ie having a signal channel (Tip or Tip) and another channel Ground (Main or Sleeve), unlike the Stereo, which has two signal channels (Punta or Type and Aro or Ring), and the other Ground (Main or Sleeve). While the plug
the guitar is Mono, Stereo jack is used to connect the negative battery Ring, ie the channel to spare. Thus introducing a Mono plug, connect the negative battery to the negative of the whole project. This is done so that the battery is connected to the circuit only if a plug plugged into the stereo jack, so the battery is spent while not using the pedal. It's the same plug that makes the connection between batei and general ground.

If you do not know which terminal it is for each of the jack (sleeve, tip, ting), use a conductivity tester sanity check fails.

The output jack (Output) is not much science as it is mono, and the cable to the amp is too.

The In (the tip) is connected to the In the circuit when the effect is active. It processes the signal, which ends at the Out of the effect. Out turn this effect is connected to the Out (tip) where you plug the amp.

In general, the pedals have input on the right and the left output. I do not find much sense, so I do the opposite because I find it more comfortable.

The current can enter the project by Jack DC, where the + is on the outside, and - on the inside or 9V battery

The terminal will track 9V 9V circuit, ie the terminal 9V out you can connect to whatever you want: P.
The ground terminal is connected to Ground general.

outlets is important that no other polarity in the Jack, which means that no plugs have a Jack in the + and - out. Also you have to be sure you're commanding 9V, neither more nor less. You can buy a transformer 9v 220AC to DC, with the correct polarity, mencionada.Sin before though later we will see a draft regulated power supply and filtered.

Perhaps you wonder why there are three terminals on the DC Jack, if there are only 2 things that connect. It is because the terminal in the middle is cut, ie while there is nothing plugged into the DC Jack, the first and second terminal will be connected. When you have something plugged in, these two terminals are no longer connected. Thus while there is nothing plugged in, we can feed our pedal with the battery. But if we decide to fit, do not have to get the battery and thanks to this system, plug the DC Plug the battery is disconnected automatic winding of the project.

pots or potentiometers are variable resistors that are connected to the circuit by cables. These variable resistors circuit controlling different aspects of giving different sounds to the signal.

Now let's talk about this strange call Milennium plate and DPDT. When the pedal is activated, the DPDT connects the pedal In the In the end, and Out of the effect with the Out of the pedal. This is a mandatory connection to the effect to work. In bypass position, ie the effect is off, In the pedal should be connected to the Out of the pedal, so as to skip the entire circuit being clean signal. But we'll see that there are several ways to bypass.



The majority of industrial pedals have a bypass system that is weak, that is not true bypass, which means that although the position in which the effect is on everything works ok when we disable the effect our Input signal is connected to the Output, Input signal but still connected to the circuit, so that sucks us the signal and distorts us, producing a "blackout" on the guitar. This is because they used SPDT (single pole). But we use DPDT, so it is possible to get a true bypass switch may signal the circuit entirely in the bypass position. This is shown in the diagram. The red brackets means the connections that make the switch in a certain position. The blue wire is a bridging cable that we put ourselves. Thus, the In Out connects to directly, and never passes through the signal circuit.

far so jewel, but what about the fachera little light that indicates when the pedal is activated? This would require some way connect the LED negative somewhere in the DPDT, so that when the pedal is on the negative of the LED connects to the general ground, and on. But we have no extra pole in the DPDT to do this, so we need a 3PDT (three poles). With this "extra column" get connect the LED, as shown in the diagram. Unfortunately 3PDT standing are impossible to find in Argentina. In the music shops of the center can come up, but for the ridiculous price of $ 40. Can also be brought from outside, it depends on each one.

words we choose to use or DPDT having true bypass, but without LED, or chose to use a 3PDT true bypass with LED but ridiculous price.
For this and other reasons is that RG (author of www.geofex.com ), design a circuit which we obterner true bypass and an LED with a DPDT. It's called the Millennium bypass (see diagram). If you are interested in the explanation of how it works can be found on http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/millenium/millen.htm.
Millennium Bypass wiring is a bit more complicated than the traditional, but functionally the same. Also need a small circuit. This circuit consists of a diode, a transistor, an LED (obviously: P) and a pair of resistors. It's pretty simple. This circuit
out 3 cables: one is the general ground, one goes to +9 V and the other goes to DPDT, as shown in the diagram. Thus the bypass position Out circuit is connected with the so-called Millennium Control circuit, turning off the LED.

There are several types of Millennium, the classics are the Millennium Millennium 1 and 2. The difference is that 1 uses a JFET, and 2 uses a MOSFET. Transistor depends on whether you should get easier to make 1 or 2.

The pin-Q1 is from left to right Source, Gate and Drain.

The pin-Q2 is from left to right Drain, Source and Gate.

This means that look out the online datasheets of transistors you use, to put it correctly in the circuit.

To cut another separate PCB, you can use the experimental plates. Here I leave a couple of layouts in the gallery diystompboxes.com site made by RG Keen.

What you can do is mount the LED in the circuit and then enter the LED where it should go into the case and paste, as shown in the diagram. For more information go to pages in the Links section.

This blog only takes into account the true bypass. While other types of bypass, we believe this is the most important and necessary. In

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Materials Suppliers

general all the necessary components are in the area from downtown. The recommended locations are:

SH-Microelectronics (Peron 1455): For electronic components such as resistors, capacitors, pots, plates, virgin, etc. The truth is that the speed with which they give you very good components. The resistors are purchased by 5. The rest all for unity.

SH-Microelectronics (PR 180): For jacks, cables, and especially the DPDT (bipolar foot switch), and other things. Aceto

-Radio (Uruguay 356): For hard to find electronic components, there are also plenty of knobs to see. Unfortunately, the attention is not very fast, but there are several interesting things here.

-Dicomse (Dobler 1126): In this place you get the harder to find components, such as germanium transistors, integrated circuits, special, etc. Too bad it is far away.

-Dimex (Córdoba 6081): While it is not in the downtown area, this place is getting certain components, such as certain capacitors,

-Gabiart (PR 290): For cabinets, the classic size is the code 6.

Mabrook Arabic Letters

Links

then recommended links on the topic:

-www.diystompboxes.com ----> The forum to learn about these things. Here you can post all your problems, see the other, etc. Also you can buy 3PDT and other components.

-diystompboxes.com/wiki/-----> wiki page, which explains the basics about electronics projects.


-www.generalguitargadgets.com-----> One of the best sites with projects. Excellent layout, you can also buy kits to assemble.

-www.tonepad.com-----> Another of the best pages, clear and precise. Contains reports of project construction.

-www.geofex.com------> Very good site, with articles, tools and projects. The author is a guy who knows a lot about it.




www.pisotones.com----->
-English page on the subject, with many projects, comments and experiences.



-www.muzique.com----> page with all sorts of information about guitar effects, schematics, etc.

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preliminary work


Well, working materials, the basic tools are:

-Welder: not necessarily the best, I find it more comfortable to type pencil.
-Tin: a community is well, it must be for electronic use.
copper-tape-remove Estani
several
-Stripper Pliers: not required, but highly recommended.
-Drilling holes for both the plate as the gabiente.
-Containers several

-Iron-Large, comfortable, preferably clear
-

comfortable chair Or you can buy an electronic kit, where you come all these tools and more.

Now, as the raw material of our pedals:

-Jacks input and output stereo-mono

Power Jack Battery-Clip Switch
-standing bipolar (or tripolar) Housing

-virgin-plate PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
-acid, for plate-paper virgin
transfer to transfer the layout to the plate
virgin-electronic components for the circuit-Cables

"And you need to fachero the left pedal.

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If you came out here, means that either you play the viola, or like electronics, or both, plus you like to create your own things, I like not having to pay for the things done, but you like rebuscártelas either means that you do not have a handle and you want to make a pedal for a few pesos.

To make the projects, although not required great knowledge of electronics, if it requires patience and dedication. As you work with a low voltage (9V), generally there is little danger, but you have to take all possible precautions, such as solder is at a high temperature.

What this blog is intended to share his experiences putting together various projects, as well as explanations of the basics of electronics, and also where to get components.
Not that everything has explanation and that those who make this blog know everything, because it is not. It is simply to encourage this sort of thing in Argentina.

Any contribution you want to do, or any question or contribution you can make the
pedalesyefectos@gmail.com
Well let's start

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Activity!

From the above on Time and Space incorporate them into your analysis of plays to choose to read their students. Encourage them to identify both elements through assistance to see a play or a movie where time and space to interact in different ways (different chronotopes).
For example: Tapes film in black and white format have a concept of time-space than tapes actuales.Montaje of current drama and symbolism have a different pace to the mounts of yesteryear (which can be analyzed through images ) Promote in students a critical analysis shows and works that fall into their hands!

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New! Four fundamental chronotopes

Mori In the cultural center is being mounted radio drama Cycle: The sinister Dr. Mortis until next weekend. It is a good opportunity to meet this important theatrical format social history of the first half of the twentieth century. For information visit http://www.centromori.cl/blog/index.php/171/ciclo-radio-teatro-el-siniestro-doctor-mortis.php May

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chronotopes

Here I present a combination of elements for chronotopes: